🏠 Home Handyman Guide

Find the isolation valve under the sink or basin — a small tap on the pipe going into the wall. Turn it clockwise until it stops. If there's no isolation valve, turn off the water at the mains (usually a tap at the front boundary of your property or inside a meter box). Open the tap to release any remaining pressure.

Pop off the decorative cap on top of the handle (pry gently with a flat screwdriver). Underneath is a screw — Phillips head or Allen key. Remove it and pull the handle straight up and off the spindle. Some handles are stiff from mineral buildup — wiggle gently while pulling.

Use the adjustable spanner to grip the large brass hexagonal nut (the headgear body). Turn anti-clockwise to unscrew. Wrap the spanner jaws with a cloth to avoid scratching chrome fittings. The entire headgear assembly lifts out as one piece.

Look at the bottom of the headgear — the washer is the small rubber disc held in place by a brass nut or clip. Remove the old washer (pry it out with the screwdriver if stuck). Take it to the hardware store to match the exact size — they come in various diameters. Press the new washer into the seat. Apply a thin smear of plumber's grease to the new washer and the O-ring on the headgear body.

Screw the headgear back in (clockwise) — hand-tight, then a quarter turn with the spanner. Don't overtighten or you'll damage the seat. Reattach the handle and cap. Turn the tap to the closed position. Turn the water back on at the isolation valve slowly. Check for leaks around the headgear — if it drips at the base, tighten slightly more or replace the O-ring.

Cut a piece of plasterboard about 50mm larger than the hole in both directions. Score a line on the back 25mm in from each edge. Snap the plaster core along the score lines and peel away the back paper and plaster — leaving only the front paper face as a flange around the edges. You should have a piece that fits the hole with paper wings sticking out on all sides.

Trim the hole edges clean and square with a utility knife. Remove any loose or crumbling plasterboard. The hole doesn't need to be a perfect rectangle — the patch will cover irregularities.

Mix setting compound to a thick peanut-butter consistency. Butter the paper flanges and the wall around the hole edge with compound. Press the patch into the hole so the paper flanges stick flat to the wall. Smooth the flanges with the filling knife, pressing out excess compound. The patch core should sit roughly flush with the surrounding wall.

Once the setting compound has firmed up (20–45 minutes for setting compound), apply a second skim coat over the entire patch area with a wider knife (200mm or wider). Feather the edges out onto the surrounding wall. Don't try to make it perfect — you'll sand it later. Let it dry completely (setting compound dries hard in 1–2 hours; pre-mixed takes 24 hours).

Sand the first coat lightly with 150-grit on a sanding block. Apply a thin second coat, feathering wider than the first. Let it dry. Sand again. Run your hand over the surface — it should feel seamless with the surrounding wall. Apply a third coat if needed (the more coats, the wider you feather, the more invisible the repair).

Spot-prime the repair area with a quality primer-sealer (unpainted compound absorbs paint differently than the surrounding wall, creating a visible 'flash' mark). Once primed, paint the entire wall — spot-painting only the repair will usually leave a visible patch because the sheen and colour won't match exactly.

Run a stud finder along the wall at your mounting height. Mark both edges of each stud with pencil. Studs are typically 45mm wide, spaced at 450mm or 600mm centres. Verify by tapping — studs sound solid, hollow sections sound hollow. If you don't have a stud finder, a strong magnet will detect the plasterboard screws in the studs.

Hold the bracket against the wall and use a spirit level to get it perfectly horizontal. Mark the screw holes with a pencil. For a TV mount, the centre of the bracket should be at eye height when seated (typically 1000–1200mm from the floor for a wall-mounted TV).

If screwing into studs: use a 3mm drill bit to drill pilot holes 50mm deep into each stud. If using toggle bolts in plasterboard: drill the hole size specified on the toggle bolt packaging (usually 10–12mm). Place a piece of masking tape on the wall before drilling to prevent the plasterboard from chipping.

Into studs: drive 75mm wood screws through the bracket into the pilot holes. Use a drill on low torque setting — don't overtighten or the screws will spin in the timber. Into plasterboard: thread the toggle bolts through the bracket holes first, then push the toggles through the wall holes and tighten. Give the bracket a firm tug to test — it should feel completely solid.

For TV mounts: attach the TV-side brackets to the back of the TV first, then lift and hook onto the wall plate. Have someone help — even a 55" TV is manageable with two people but awkward alone. Check level once mounted. For mirrors: hang on the hooks and adjust until level.

Lift the cistern lid and watch what happens. If water is trickling over the top of the overflow tube, the float is set too high — go to Step 5. If water is seeping down through the flush valve at the bottom (you'll see ripples around it), the seal is worn — continue to Step 2. Add a few drops of food colouring to the cistern water — if colour appears in the bowl without flushing, the seal is definitely leaking.

Turn the isolation tap behind the toilet clockwise until it stops. Flush the toilet to empty the cistern. Sponge out any remaining water.

The flush valve mechanism varies by brand. For Caroma dual-flush (most common in Australia): twist the flush button assembly anti-clockwise and lift out. The flush valve may lift out or unclip. The rubber seal sits on the valve seat at the bottom — it's a ring or disc. Peel or unclip the old one. Take it to the hardware store — Caroma kits are available at Bunnings for about $10–$20.

Wipe the valve seat clean with a cloth — mineral deposits on the seat prevent the new seal from seating properly and the leak will continue. Press the new seal firmly into place. Reassemble the flush valve mechanism. Turn the water back on and let the cistern fill. Test both flush buttons.

The water level should sit about 20mm below the top of the overflow tube. For ballcock-style valves (older toilets): bend the float arm down slightly. For modern fill valves with an adjustment screw on top: turn the screw clockwise to lower the water level. Flush and watch the refill — the water should stop rising 20mm below the overflow.

Walk slowly across the floor to pinpoint the exact squeaky spot. Mark it with tape. Use a stud finder to locate the joist underneath — joists run perpendicular to floorboards and are typically at 450mm centres. Existing nails in the boards point to joist locations. If under carpet, pull the carpet back to access the boards.

Using the 3mm drill bit, drill a pilot hole through the floorboard directly over the joist. The pilot hole prevents the board from splitting and ensures the screw pulls cleanly into the joist. For hardwood floors, this step is essential — hardwood will split without a pilot hole.

Drive a 50mm countersunk screw through the pilot hole into the joist. The screw should pull the board down tight against the joist — you'll feel it snug up. Countersink the head about 2mm below the surface. For timber floors that will be exposed, fill the countersunk hole with matching wood filler. For floors under carpet, the screw head won't be visible.

Walk over the repaired area. If it still squeaks, the movement may be between adjacent boards rather than board-to-joist. In that case, puff talcum powder or graphite powder into the joint between boards — this lubricates the contact point. For persistent squeaks, add screws at both ends of the affected board where it crosses joists.

Before cutting anything, prop the fence panels with temporary braces (a couple of lengths of timber leaned against them and staked to the ground). Remove any rails or palings attached directly to the bad post — usually two or three nails or screws on each rail.

Using a handsaw or reciprocating saw, cut the rotten post off flush with the top of the old concrete footing. Don't try to dig out the footing — it's the foundation for your repair. Clean the top of the concrete surface with a wire brush.

Position the steel post stirrup bracket centred on the old footing. Mark the bolt holes. Drill into the concrete with a masonry bit (usually 10mm or 12mm). Blow out the dust and hammer in concrete anchor bolts (Dynabolts or similar). Tighten the bracket. Check it's plumb with a spirit level.

Cut a new H4-treated post to the correct height. Drop it into the stirrup. Check plumb on two faces with the spirit level. Drill through the pre-punched holes in the stirrup and through the post, then bolt with M10 coach bolts, washers and nuts. Tighten firmly.

Nail or screw the fence rails back to the new post. Use 75mm galvanised nails or 65mm galvanised screws. Replace any damaged palings while you're at it. Remove the temporary braces. The repair is structurally as strong as the original — the stirrup-to-concrete connection is actually stronger than timber buried in concrete because there's no timber-to-ground contact to rot.

Move furniture to the centre and cover with drop sheets. Remove switch plates and power point covers (turn off at the switchboard first). Fill all nail holes, cracks and dents with lightweight filler. Let it dry, then sand smooth with 150-grit paper. Sugar-soap wash all walls and ceiling with a sponge to remove grease, dust and cobwebs. Let everything dry completely — painting over moisture causes peeling.

Any filled holes, bare plaster or previously unpainted areas need a coat of primer-sealer first. Unprimed patches absorb paint at a different rate than the surrounding wall, leaving visible 'flash' marks even after two coats. Use a mini roller or brush for spot-priming. One coat is enough — let it dry (typically 2 hours for acrylic primer).

Apply painter's tape along ceiling edges, around window and door frames, and along skirting boards. Press the tape edge down firmly with a putty knife — air gaps under the tape let paint bleed through. For ceiling-to-wall edges, tape is optional if you're confident cutting in freehand with a brush.

Use flat white ceiling paint and a roller with extension pole. Cut in around the edges with a brush first (a 50mm strip around the perimeter). Then roll the main area in strips parallel to the main window. Work in manageable sections, maintaining a wet edge — don't let one strip dry before overlapping with the next or you'll get visible lap marks. Apply two coats, allowing full drying between (check the tin — usually 2–4 hours).

Using the angled brush, cut in a 50mm strip around all edges — ceiling line, corners, around windows, doors, power points and skirting. Then immediately roll the main wall area before the cut-in dries. Roll in overlapping W or M shapes, then lay off with light vertical strokes. Work one wall at a time. Two coats minimum — the first coat often looks patchy and that's normal.

Once walls are dry, tape along the wall edge above the skirting. Use a small brush or mini foam roller with semi-gloss paint on skirting boards, architraves and door frames. Semi-gloss is more durable and washable than flat or low-sheen — important for surfaces that get bumped and cleaned regularly. Remove all tape while the final coat is still slightly tacky — pulling tape off dried paint can peel the paint with it.

Cover the overflow hole (basins) with a wet cloth to create a sealed vacuum. Place the plunger over the drain, ensuring a good seal. Plunge firmly 15–20 times. The pressure wave dislodges most soft blockages. For toilets, use a flange plunger (the extended lip seals into the toilet outlet).

Feed the snake cable into the drain opening. Crank the handle to advance it. When you hit resistance (the blockage), push through while cranking — the corkscrew tip grabs hair, soap and debris. Pull back slowly and clean the tip. Repeat 2–3 times. Run hot water for 2 minutes after to flush debris.

Place a bucket under the trap (the U-shaped pipe under the sink). Unscrew the trap nuts by hand or with pliers (turn anti-clockwise). The trap drops down and water spills into the bucket. Clean out the grease, food and gunk. Check the horizontal pipe into the wall — poke the drain snake in if it's blocked. Reassemble the trap, hand-tight plus a quarter turn with pliers. Run water and check for leaks at the joints.

Grip and turn anti-clockwise. If it won't budge, wrap a cloth around the fitting and use adjustable pliers (the cloth prevents scratching chrome). The head unscrews from the wall arm — the arm stays in the wall.

Remove old tape and any grit from the arm thread with an old toothbrush. Wrap 8–10 turns of PTFE tape clockwise (so it doesn't unwind when screwing on the new head). Keep the tape taut as you wrap.

Hand-tighten the new shower head. Then a quarter-turn more with the cloth-wrapped pliers. Turn on the water. If it leaks at the joint, tighten slightly more or add more tape. A 3-star WELS head (7.5 L/min) saves a family of four about 20,000 litres per year vs an old 15 L/min head.

Cut along both edges of the old silicone with a sharp Stanley knife. Peel it out. Use a silicone remover product or methylated spirits on a cloth to clean off any residue. The surface must be completely clean and dry — silicone will not stick to old silicone.

This is the most important tip most people miss. A full bath weighs 150–200kg more than an empty bath. If you seal it empty, the silicone will stretch and crack the first time someone fills it. Fill the bath, then seal, then let the silicone cure 24 hours before draining.

Apply painter's tape on the wall and on the bath/shower tray, leaving a 3–5mm gap (the width of the silicone bead you want). Press the tape edges down firmly.

Cut the nozzle at 45° to match the gap width. Apply a continuous bead in one smooth motion — don't stop and restart. Smooth immediately with a wet finger or silicone tool in one stroke. Remove tape immediately while the silicone is still wet — if you wait until it skins over, pulling the tape tears the silicone.

Don't use the shower or bath for 24 hours. Bathroom silicone needs full cure time to become waterproof and mould-resistant. Open a window for ventilation during curing.

Open the door and tighten all screws on both hinges (top and bottom). Most sticking doors are simply caused by loose hinge screws — the top hinge carries most of the weight and loosens first.

If screws spin freely, the timber holes are stripped. Remove the screw, push 2–3 wooden matchsticks (or a golf tee) dipped in PVA glue into the hole. Snap off flush with the surface. Let the glue dry 30 minutes. Re-drive the screw — it will now grip firmly in the packed timber. Alternatively, use a 75mm screw instead of the original 25mm — the longer screw bites into fresh timber deeper in the frame.

If hinges are tight and the door still sticks, close it and check where it contacts the frame. Mark the high spots with a pencil. Remove the door (tap the hinge pins out from below with a nail punch, or unscrew the hinges from the door). Plane or sand the marked areas — remove thin shavings and test-fit frequently. Seal any bare timber with primer to prevent future swelling.

Measure from the edge of the door to the centre of the existing handle hole. Australian standard backsets are 60mm or 70mm. Buy the matching size — if you get it wrong, the handle spindle won't reach the latch mechanism.

Look for a small pin hole or slot on the neck of the inner handle. Insert a thin nail or Allen key and push — this releases the handle. Pull it off. Unscrew the mounting plate and pull the latch out from the edge of the door.

Insert the new latch into the edge hole, bevelled face toward the closing direction. Screw the latch plate into the edge. Feed the outside handle's spindle through the latch mechanism, then attach the inside handle and mounting plate. Test the handle operates smoothly before tightening fully. If the latch doesn't align with the strike plate in the frame, adjust the strike plate position with a chisel.

Vacuum all debris from the bottom track. Scrub with a stiff brush and soapy water. Wipe dry. This alone fixes most sliding door problems — dirt and grit in the track causes 80% of sticking issues.

Look at the bottom edge of the door — there are adjustment screws at each end (small Phillips or slotted screws). Turn clockwise to raise the door (lifts it slightly off the track), anti-clockwise to lower. Adjust both ends evenly so the door hangs parallel to the frame.

Spray silicone lubricant along the track. Never use WD-40 or oil — they attract dirt and make the problem worse within weeks. Silicone spray stays clean and lasts months.

If the door still drags after cleaning and adjusting, the rollers are worn. Remove the door by lifting it up into the top track and swinging the bottom outward. Rollers are usually held by a single screw at the bottom edge. Take the old roller to the hardware store to match the size and wheel type.

Remove loose debris, old caulk and dust. Use a vacuum nozzle on narrow gaps. The surfaces must be clean and dry for the sealant to adhere properly.

For gaps wider than 10mm, push foam backer rod into the gap first. This provides a base for the caulk and prevents it from sinking in and cracking. The rod should sit about 5mm below the surface.

Cut the nozzle at 45° to match the gap width. Hold the gun at 45° and push the caulk ahead of the nozzle in one continuous motion. Smooth with a wet finger or ice cream stick. Wipe excess with a damp cloth immediately. Use acrylic sealant for interior gaps (it's paintable); use polyurethane for exterior gaps (UV and weather resistant).

For curtain rods: mount brackets 100–150mm above the window frame and 100–200mm wider each side. This makes the window look larger and lets curtains clear the glass when open. For blinds: measure the exact inside width of the reveal (measure three times — blinds are cut to size).

Use a spirit level to ensure brackets are perfectly level — even 2mm difference shows with a blind or curtain rod. Mark screw holes with a pencil. Drill pilot holes. For plasterboard: use wall plugs. For heavy curtains: mount into wall studs if possible.

Screw brackets into place. For curtain rods: slide the rod through the curtain rings/hooks before placing on brackets. For roller blinds: clip the blind into the brackets (usually a push-and-click mechanism). Test the blind rolls smoothly and curtains slide freely.

Measure both sides and the top of the door frame (the bottom gets a separate sweep). Buy weatherstripping slightly longer than needed — you'll trim to fit. V-strip or compression strip is more durable than foam tape.

The weatherstrip goes on the door stop (the thin strip of timber the door closes against), so it compresses when the door shuts. For peel-and-stick types: clean the surface, peel and press firmly. For screw-fix compression strips: position against the closed door so it's slightly compressed, then screw the aluminium channel to the stop at 150mm intervals.

Screw a brush seal or rubber sweep to the bottom of the door (inside face). Position it so the brush/rubber just touches the floor or threshold when the door is closed. It should compress slightly — not drag heavily on carpet.

Close the door and look for daylight around all edges. Any visible light means air is still getting through. Adjust or add extra weatherstripping where needed. A well-sealed door saves $50–$100 per year on heating and cooling.

Mark the area with string lines. Excavate to the required depth (paver thickness + 100mm for base and sand layers — typically 160mm total). Compact the sub-grade soil with a hand tamper.

Spread 75mm of road base or crusher dust evenly. Compact with a plate compactor (hire for about $80/day) or hand tamper. The base should be firm enough that you can walk on it without leaving footprints. This is the most important layer — if the base is uneven, the pavers will be uneven.

Lay two 25mm diameter pipes (screeding rails) on the compacted base, parallel, about 1m apart. Spread coarse sand between them. Drag a straight edge along the pipes to create a perfectly level 25mm sand bed. Remove the pipes and fill the channels with sand by hand.

Start from a straight edge (a wall, fence or border). Place pavers onto the sand — don't slide them. Maintain 2–3mm gaps between pavers. Tap each paver level with a rubber mallet. Work outward from your starting edge. Cut edge pavers as needed — score with a bolster and snap, or use an angle grinder for clean cuts.

Spread fine kiln-dried sand over the finished surface. Sweep it into the joints with a broom. Run the plate compactor over the pavers (use a rubber pad underneath to prevent cracking). The vibration settles the sand into the joints and locks the pavers together. Top up sand after a week as it settles further.

A 2400×1200mm bed (one sleeper length by half a length) is ideal — you can reach the centre from both sides without stepping on the soil. Position in a spot that gets at least 6 hours of direct sunlight. Level the ground roughly with a rake.

Cut sleepers to your chosen dimensions. Pre-drill and screw together at the corners with 100mm galvanised screws — two screws per corner joint. For beds higher than one sleeper, stack with joints offset (like brickwork) and screw through into the layer below. Check the frame is square by measuring diagonals — they should be equal.

Lay weed mat inside the bed across the bottom (leave the bottom open for drainage — the weed mat just stops weeds growing up). If using treated pine for a veggie garden, line the inside walls with heavy-duty black plastic as an extra precaution (modern ACQ and LOSP treatments are safe, but the plastic gives peace of mind). Fill with a 3:1 mix of garden soil and compost. Water it in well — the soil will settle 10–15%, so mound it slightly higher than the edges.

Working along the gutter from the end furthest from the downpipe, scoop out leaves, dirt and debris into your bucket. Wear thick gloves — gutters harbour sharp edges, spiders and decomposing organic matter.

Once the bulk debris is removed, flush the gutter with a hose toward the downpipe. Watch that water flows freely into the downpipe. If it pools in sections, the gutter has sagged and needs re-fixing.

If the downpipe is blocked, try a strong blast from the hose at the top. For stubborn blockages, feed a plumber's drain snake down from the top. As a last resort, disconnect the bottom elbow and clear from below.

Look for rust holes (seal with gutter sealant), loose joins (re-rivet or seal), and sagging sections (re-fix with new gutter screws — don't reuse the old holes). Gutters need about 5mm of fall per metre toward the downpipe. Re-fix sagged sections higher at the far end to restore the fall.

Chisel out all loose, crumbling and damaged concrete to a minimum 25mm depth. Create square edges (undercut slightly so the patch locks in) — don't feather edges thin because thin edges crack and pop out. Wire-brush the cavity clean. Blow or vacuum out all dust.

Spray the cavity with water until damp but not pooling. Brush PVA bonding agent onto all surfaces of the cavity. This ensures the new mortar bonds to the old concrete — without it, the repair can delaminate.

Mix polymer-modified repair mortar to a thick consistency. Pack it into the cavity in layers no more than 20mm thick — thicker layers shrink and crack. For deep repairs, let each layer firm up (30–60 minutes) before adding the next. Smooth the final layer flush with the surrounding surface using a steel trowel.

Keep the repair damp for 3–7 days. Cover with plastic sheet or spray with water 2–3 times daily. Proper curing is critical — concrete that dries too fast is weak and crumbly. Don't walk on or load the repair for at least 24 hours (72 hours for vehicle traffic).

Place a bucket under the drip. If water is running along a rafter or ceiling, poke a small hole in the plasterboard at the lowest wet point to let it drain into the bucket — this prevents the water spreading and collapsing a larger section of ceiling. Place a tarp over the affected roof area outside, weighted with sandbags or heavy timber.

Go into the roof space with a torch. Look for water stains on rafters and sarking — trace the stains back toward the roof surface. Water can travel along timbers, so the stain in the ceiling may be far from the actual leak. Mark the entry point from inside by pushing a wire or nail through the roof.

Common leak sources and quick fixes: Cracked ridge capping: re-bed with roof cement. Cracked or displaced tile: lift surrounding tiles and slide in a replacement. Rusted screw holes (metal roof): remove old screw, fill hole with roof sealant, drive a new screw nearby. Valley or flashing leak: apply roof silicone sealant over the gap as a temporary measure.

Silicone and cement patches are temporary — they'll eventually fail. For valley leaks, flashing failures, or multiple tile cracks, call a licensed roofer for a proper repair. Get it fixed before the next rain season — water damage to ceiling framing and insulation is expensive if left.

Turn off all ceiling circuit breakers at the switchboard. Set up your work light. Lay boards across the ceiling joists to kneel and walk on — never step directly on plasterboard between joists or you'll fall through the ceiling. Have all your batts and tools at the manhole before you start.

Look for electrical junction boxes, recessed downlights, and exhaust fans. Leave 50mm clearance around standard downlights (they generate heat). IC-rated (insulation contact) downlights can have batts laid directly over them — check the sticker on each one. Don't cover exhaust fans or block eave ventilation gaps.

Start from the furthest point from the manhole and work back toward it. Lay batts between the ceiling joists with the foil or kraft paper side facing down (toward the heated living space). Butt each batt tightly against the next — no gaps. Don't compress batts (squishing reduces their insulation value). Cut batts to fit around obstacles with a utility knife. For topping up existing insulation, lay new batts perpendicular to the existing layer.

Brush off any fibreglass from your skin and clothes before re-entering the house. Shower immediately — fibreglass fibres cause itching. Turn power back on and test all downlights and fans work correctly.

Mount on the ceiling, centred in the room or hallway. At least 300mm from walls, corners, lights and air vents (dead air zones reduce sensitivity). One alarm per bedroom, one in every hallway connecting bedrooms, and one on every level of the home. Don't install in kitchens or bathrooms — steam and cooking fumes cause false alarms. Instead, install a heat alarm in the kitchen.

Hold the mounting plate against the ceiling, mark the screw holes with a pencil. Drill holes, insert wall plugs, and screw the plate to the ceiling. The plate usually has a twist-lock mechanism for the alarm body.

Twist or click the alarm body onto the mounting plate. Press the test button — the alarm should sound. For wireless interconnected alarms (e.g. Clipsal 755PSMA4), follow the pairing instructions so all alarms sound when one triggers. Test every alarm monthly.

Hot water under pressure can scald. Let the system cool for at least 30 minutes. Check radiators with your hand — they should be warm but not hot.

Place a cloth or container under the bleed valve (small valve at the top corner of the radiator). Insert the bleed key and turn anti-clockwise about a quarter turn. You'll hear hissing as trapped air escapes.

Once water starts dripping steadily (no more air hissing), close the valve. Don't overtighten — just firm. Check the system pressure gauge on your boiler — if it's dropped below 1 bar, top up via the filling loop. Bleed all radiators starting from the ground floor up.

Cut 90×45mm timber to form a rectangular frame matching the plywood sheet (2400×1200mm or cut to your preferred size). Add internal cross supports at 400mm centres. Screw together with 75mm screws — two screws per joint, pre-drilled.

Lay the plywood sheet on the frame. Screw down with 40mm screws at 200mm centres around the perimeter and into each cross support. The ply top gives you a smooth, flat work surface.

Cut four legs at 850–900mm (standard workbench height — adjust to your elbow height for comfort). Bolt to the inside corners of the frame with M10 coach bolts. Use two bolts per leg for strength.

Without bracing, the bench will rack (wobble sideways). Screw a diagonal brace on each end between a leg and the underside of the frame. A shelf between the legs at 200mm height also adds rigidity and useful storage. Check the bench is level and doesn't rock — shim the feet if your garage floor is uneven.

See the workbench guide above. A sturdy workbench is the foundation of any workshop. Position it where you have good lighting and enough space to handle long pieces of timber (at least 1m clear on the long sides).

A pegboard on the wall above the workbench keeps frequently used tools visible and within arm's reach. Hooks and clips cost about $20 for a starter set. For less-used tools, a standing tool bag or chest keeps them organised and portable. Label everything — you'll spend less time looking for the right bit or blade.

A 5000K LED batten light (daylight colour) above the workbench eliminates shadows and makes measuring and cutting accurate. A rechargeable LED work light ($30–$60) is essential for working under sinks, in roof spaces and anywhere the overhead light doesn't reach.

Stock these and use them every time: safety glasses ($5), P2 dust mask ($8 for a box of 10), hearing protection ($10), work gloves ($10), and a basic first aid kit ($20). A fire extinguisher near the garage door is worth the $40 — sawdust and timber shavings are highly flammable.

Hold the shelf (or a spirit level) at your desired height and mark a level pencil line. For multiple shelves, measure equal spacing from a reference point. Use a laser level if you have one — it makes long runs much easier.

For heavy loads (books, kitchen items), fix brackets to studs with 50–75mm screws. Space brackets no more than 600mm apart (400mm for heavy loads). For lighter loads on plasterboard, use wall plugs rated for the weight. Pre-drill all holes.

Screw brackets to the wall. Check they're level before loading. For floating shelves: mount the concealed bracket plate or metal rods first, then slide the shelf over. The illusion of a floating shelf comes from the hidden hardware — if the bracket plate isn't level, the shelf won't be either. Pre-finish shelves before mounting to avoid paint drips on the wall.

Score along the grout line with the carbide grout rake. Work in one direction with firm, consistent pressure. Remove grout to a minimum 3mm depth — deeper is better for adhesion. An oscillating multi-tool with a grout blade is 5× faster for large areas. Be careful not to chip the tile edges.

Vacuum all dust from the joints thoroughly — dust prevents the new grout from bonding. Spray the joints lightly with water from a spray bottle. The surfaces should be damp but not wet.

Load the rubber float with grout. Hold it at 45° to the tiles and push grout into the joints diagonally (not parallel to the joints or you'll drag it back out). Work in sections of about 1 m² at a time.

Once the grout starts to firm up (test with a fingertip — it should feel firm, not sticky), wipe excess off the tile faces with a damp sponge in diagonal strokes. Rinse the sponge frequently. Don't wipe aggressively or you'll pull grout from the joints. A light haze will remain on the tiles — buff it off with a dry cloth after 2–3 hours.

The centre of the picture should sit at roughly eye level — about 1500mm from the floor (gallery standard). For pictures above furniture, leave 150–200mm between the top of the furniture and the bottom of the frame. Hold the picture against the wall and have someone step back to check the position before marking.

Turn the picture over. Pull the wire or D-ring taut as if it were hanging. Measure the distance from the top of the frame to where the wire peaks. On the wall, mark the centre position for the picture, then measure down from the top of the intended frame position by that distance. That's where the hook goes.

Small pictures (under 2kg): a single nail at 45° into plasterboard holds fine. Medium pictures (2–8kg): use a proper picture hook with a hardened nail — the angled nail distributes load better than a straight nail. Heavy pictures (8kg+): use two hooks spaced 300mm apart, or anchor into a stud. Never use adhesive hooks for anything heavier than 1kg.

Hammer the picture hook nail at 45° into the wall. Hang the picture and adjust until level. For perfectly level hanging: place a small strip of painter's tape on the back of each bottom corner — this also prevents the frame scuffing the wall and stops it sliding crooked over time.

Buy a flyscreen repair patch kit from the hardware store (about $5 for a pack of adhesive patches). Clean the area around the hole with methylated spirits. Apply the patch over the hole and press firmly. This takes 2 minutes and works well for small tears, pet claw holes and insect-sized gaps.

Remove the screen from the window or door frame. Lay it flat on a table. Use a flat screwdriver to pry up one corner of the rubber spline (the cord pressed into the channel that holds the mesh). Pull the entire spline out — the old mesh lifts away.

Cut new mesh about 50mm larger than the frame on all sides. Lay it over the frame, keeping the weave lines parallel to the frame edges (crooked mesh is very visible). Starting on one long side, use the spline roller to press new spline into the channel, trapping the mesh. Pull the mesh taut before rolling the opposite side. Trim excess mesh with scissors flush along the outside of the spline channel.

Look at the closer body (the rectangular box mounted to the door or frame). Most closers have two adjustment screws on the end or side — one controls the sweep speed (how fast the door moves through most of its arc) and one controls the latch speed (how fast it closes in the last 10–15 degrees). They're usually labelled S and L, or 1 and 2.

Turn the sweep screw clockwise to slow the door down, anti-clockwise to speed it up. Make tiny adjustments — a quarter turn at a time. Test by opening the door fully and letting it go. The door should take about 5–8 seconds to close from fully open. Too fast and it slams; too slow and it doesn't latch properly.

The latch speed controls the final closing action. If the door closes smoothly but doesn't latch, speed up the latch action (anti-clockwise). If it slams shut at the end, slow it down (clockwise). The latch phase should give a firm, controlled close without slamming.

Halogen globes get extremely hot — wait at least 5 minutes after turning off before touching. LED globes stay cool and can be handled immediately.

Common Australian types: B22 (bayonet cap) — push in and twist anti-clockwise to remove (most common in older homes). E27 (Edison screw) — unscrew anti-clockwise (common in pendant lights). GU10 (twist-lock downlight) — push in slightly, twist anti-clockwise and pull out. MR16 (pin-base downlight) — pull straight down, pins slide out of the socket. Take the old globe to the hardware store to match if you're unsure.

Match the base type, then choose your colour temperature: 3000K (warm white) for bedrooms and living areas — the same warm glow as old incandescent globes. 4000K (cool white) for kitchens, bathrooms and workshops — brighter, cleaner light. 5000K+ (daylight) for garages and task lighting. For brightness, a 10W LED equals roughly a 60W incandescent. Check the lumens (lm) — 800lm is standard room brightness, 1200lm+ for task areas.

Insert in reverse of removal. For bayonet: align the pins with the slots, push in and twist clockwise. For screw: screw in clockwise until snug. For GU10: align the lugs, push in and twist clockwise. Turn on and check it works. If the globe flickers in a dimmer circuit, you may need a dimmable LED globe — not all LEDs are dimmer-compatible.